PAPEETE'S HIDDEN PEARLS: WHAT TO DO IN TAHITI

First things first: what exactly is a ‘roulotte’? Tahiti’s answer to a food truck has been around for nearly 100 years. A must for anyone looking to enjoy informal, inexpensive Polynesian cuisine, roulottes serve a range of traditional dishes—most famously i’a ota ha’ari, or poisson cru. The national dish features raw fish marinated in lime juice with a coconut sauce (don’t call it ceviche!). Other specialties include grilled tuna and rarer finds like saumon des dieux. If you were expecting salmon, guess again—this is opah or moonfish, a true local delicacy. Come for the food, stay for the unforgettable tablecloths. Our printed swim trunks and shirts better watch out!

Le marché de Papeete, Papeete 98714, Daily from 4am

Thought vacation was for sleeping in? Wrong. To get the best of the city’s fresh food and craft market, you’ll need an early start—around 4 am. Spread over 75,000 square feet and two floors, Mapuru A Paraita has been a gathering place for sailors, traders, and foodies since 1847. Begin your visit with a glass of freshly pressed sugar cane juice and perhaps a firi firi donut or two—the perfect breakfast to fuel your morning. The market's many treasures include rows of colorful pareos, stacks of tifaifai quilts, and handmade souvenirs from the Marquesas Islands. Even more impressive are the many exotic fruits and vegetables—uru, taro, mapé, fe’i bananas… Vitamins never looked so appealing.

By now, you and your wallet are probably ready for break. Head up to the first floor of Papeete Market and pull up a stool at Café Maeva juice and coffee bar. Maeva has become something of an institution, with a handful of addresses across the island. They offer a variety of healthy smoothies, salads and tartares, as well as some less ‘virtuous’ options. You need their taro and uru fries in your life. One thing we love about Café Maeva: you don’t plan a visit, you just rock up―probably in your swim trunks. There’s no point trying to find out more on their website, either. It’s completely empty except for a message that reads “profite du soleil”―”gone tanning”, as we say at Vilebrequin! Ah, the island life…

If you hear someone saying “Are you in 3B?”, they’re not comparing plane seats. This is code for the micro-brewery with the best views on the island: Les 3 Brasseurs. Imported from metropolitan France, this family-run business uses only traditional methods to produce non-filtered craft beers with incredible aromas. The place to beer in Papeete since 1998, this popular spot recently opened the Baroof rooftop restaurant and cocktail bar, offering front-row seats to the lagoons and volcanoes. The perfect end to a perfect day. Nānā Papeete!*

*Until next time!